36 Hours
MIDWAY ATOLL
A remote haven for seabirds and other wildlife set like a jewel within an azure lagoon offering unexpected cross-cultural amenities for the adventurous traveler.
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| Wildlife viewing by bike on the southern shore of Sand Island |
By ROB TAYLOR
Getting to Midway Atoll, a small outpost of sand and
coral more than 1,000 miles from Honolulu, isn’t easy but for those intrepid
enough to make the voyage, it can be the experience of a lifetime. Once a US
Navy Air Station, now
a wildlife refuge situated within the largest conservation
area on the planet, Midway provides critical habitat for rare and endangered
seabirds – including Laysan duck and and black-footed albatross – as well as
sites of great historical significance including a variety of WWII relics. A
dynamic, perhaps even idiosyncratic blend of custom and culture makes Midway a
unique destination sought after by the world’s elite travelers (President
Obama made a quick visit here in 2016) and yet it maintains an
unpretentious charm. Relatively small in area – the three islands that comprise
total less than 3 square miles and travel is done by
foot or by bicycle – even the most footloose of visitors can
experience myriad natural and cultural fascinations in just a couple of days.
Currently, travel here is somewhat complicated by lack of commercial flights and
visitor services but not impossible, especially if you’re willing to volunteer
your time with the US Fish and Wildlife Service
to help out with conservation projects. If you can, time your visit during “albatross
season” when over a million large, somewhat
awkward yet undeniably magnificent seabirds, descend on
Midway to nurture their next generation to life.
Friday
( 1 ) 3 P.M. Ø REDONDO
A short golf cart limo
ride gets you and your baggage from the tarmac to Charlie Hotel in a matter of
minutes providing ample time for a quick tour of Sand Island. Arrange to have
your rental bicycle waiting for you to save time then fill up your water bottle
(double-filtered water is available in the small water and ice shack across
from the hotel) and have the hotel staff make arrangements with airport
operations to let them know you’ll be crossing the runway during your bike
tour. Then hop on your trusty cruiser
and head out towards the Visitors Center
and Museum which is located in the Midway
Atoll National Wildlife Refuge and Battle of Midway National Memorial
Headquarters. Small, yet
informative, the museum covers both the cultural and natural history of Midway
including its importance to native Hawaiian people (the coral reefs here are
thought to be the birthplace of all life) as well as the key role the islands
played during WWII. A new exhibit explains the recent expansion of Papahānaumokuākea
Marine National Monument within which
Midway lies. Be sure to check out the green glass fishing floats and the large
scale replica of Sand Island. A table in the back of the museum has albums of
fascinating historic photos and other curiosities, including a 1964 copy of the
Gooney Gourmet, a cookbook written by
members of the Midway Officers Wives Club. Climb back on the saddle and head
south passing by the old orchard and the historic Public Works buildings.
Continue south and as you approach the runway check out the large, cleared area
on your left. Once a forest of the invasive ironwood tree, this area is now a
restoration demonstration site and now hosts various native Hawaiian plant
species, including the rare and endangered Popolo.
Now follow the bike path across the runway to the south side of the island and
head west taking in the waves breaking on the reef just off shore. Continue west
towards Frigate Point (beware of
patches of soft sand in the trail) looking out for the extremely rare
short-tailed albatross between the path and the runway. Eventually the path
doubles back (crossing the runway again) towards town. Your timing should be
just about perfect to arrive at the Clipper House as the doors open for dinner.
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| Fusion dining at its funkiest at the Clipper House |
( 2 ) 5 P.M. Ø FUNKY FUSION
The Clipper House is the
one and only restaurant on the island featuring a funky mix of American, Thai,
and other world cuisines served buffet-style. Chef Pong Wichasawatdi and his
all-Thai staff earned their chops on luxury cruise ships and put their culinary
experience to good use. Menus constantly
change but if you are lucky you might find a steaming pot of Green Chicken or Beef Massaman Curry and Thai-style
Sticky Rice. Larb Moo (spicy pork
salad), Tom Ka Gai (chicken coconut
soup), and Seafood Tom Yum soup are
other Thai specialties executed by the Clipper House to fantastic effect. On
the flip side of the menu look for Steak
Diane, Adobe Chicken, Baked Acorn Squash, and Zippy Shrimp, all local favorites. The salad bar features
locally produced greens and other produce grown in the island’s hydroponic
greenhouse. Thrill seekers can take advantage of the rare opportunity of having
Thai and American dishes side by side in the same hot table. Notable fusion concoctions
have included Thai Red Curry Mac and
Cheese and the incredible Pad Thai
Chicago Dog. For dessert, check out the selection of cakes, cookies, and
pastries and if Kidjarom’s New York Style
Cheesecake is available, don’t even think of passing it up. Otherwise you
might opt for the ever-popular self-serve frozen dairy dessert available in
vanilla, chocolate, and (occasionally) Clipper-House
Coffee flavors.
( 3 ) 6 P.M. Ø SHOPPING MADE SUPER SIMPLE
While shopping options
are somewhat limited at Midway, the Ship’s Store does a fabulous job of
stocking truly necessary items. Forgot shampoo or dental floss? Jack Phosri,
manager of the store has your back! Even more important is the stores selection
of beers, wine and spirits. If you are used to big city selection, you might be
surprised to find only a handful of brands in each category but if you allow
yourself to simply comprehend the fact that this is the only store selling
adult beverages and snacks within a 1,000 mile radius, you can feel absolutely
righteous as you tip-toe out of the store with a couple of six packs of Chang
Lager (US $11), a liter of Johnny Walker Black (US $55) and a jumbo bag of
Tostito Blue Corn Tortilla Chips (US $6). The Ships Store also houses a large
selection of souvenir merchandise offered by the Friends of Midway Atoll including t-shirts,
post-cards, water bottles, and the classic, all metal, Zippo lighter (an
essential gift for anyone you know who uses disposable plastic lighters,
commonly found among other plastic ocean debris that washes up on the shores
here). Be sure to stock up as the Ship’s
Store has very limited hours and this will likely be your only chance to visit.
Celebrate your newly acquired purchases with a quick trip to Cargo Pier where you can relax on a
bench and get a good view of Hawaiian green turtles basking on Turtle Beach and foraging for algae
along the pier; you’ll also get a great view of albatross and other seabirds
flying over open water as the sun settles in the western sky.
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| Get your karaoke on after hours at the Aree House |
( 4 ) 8
P.M. Ø SING YOUR HEART
OUT
Over twenty hardworking Thai
nationals (all men) live and work full-time on Midway maintaining the
infrastructure and providing essential services to all of the island’s
residents. After a long week of labor, it’s time to kick back, and long-term
residents and visitors alike are all welcome at the Aree House where you can always find a cooler of beer and the warm,
hospitality that the nation of Thailand is known for. Though it may be hard to
decipher some of the card and dice games typically played on weekend nights, karaoke
is a popular pastime that anyone can easily join in on. Put in a request for
your favorite tune or just wait until a song inspires you to sing along. The Beatles, Neil Young, ABBA, The Eagles, and Selene Diaz are eternally popular but there is a wide selection of
songs available cutting across a dozen or more genres. Thai pop songs often prompt
the more accomplished local singers to croon. On warm summer nights the garden
with its benches, water features, and attendant albatross chicks make for an
exceptionally convivial and international setting. Charlie Hotel is right next
door, but be sure to bring a flashlight as there are no external lights on
Midway (to protect the birds) and it can get very dark!
( 5 )
7
A.M. Ø UP CLOSE AND
PERSONAL
With so much to see in a
short time, you’ll want to set your alarm and rise early. Even if you don’t, the albatross will
probably wake you up anyway. Coffee and breakfast await you at the Clipper
House but you’ll want to get your feed on quickly because you need to be at the
Finger Piers at 7 am to meet up with Sam Songserm and his able crew of weed
control technicians. Locally known as the A
Team, Sam and his crew travel by boat
to Eastern Island to wage war with verbesina (a noxious weed) and
there is usually a couple of empty seats available (make sure they’ll be coming
back at lunchtime!). Why drag your sorry keister out of bed so early to go to Eastern
Island? While Sand Island harbors an incredible abundance and diversity, the
presence of man, prevents some species from living there. Uninhabited, Eastern
Island allows the visitor to observe a number of seabird species either absent
or infrequently encountered on the rest of the atoll including Great Frigatebird, three species of Boobie (Red-Footed, Masked, and Brown) and both Sooty and Gray-backed Terns. As it lacks any old buildings or ironwood
forests, the environment and wildlife of Eastern Island also provide an
experience more similar to that of what a 19th century shipwrecked
sailor might have had. Pack a spare camera battery to be sure you don’t miss
out on once in a lifetime photographic opportunities!
( 6 )
10
A.M. Ø ALBATROSS SAFARI
The Hawaiian name for
Midway is Pihemanu which means the
“loud din of birds”. Yes, indeed, these albatross can certainly make a racket
but they also display a rich set of behaviors that can be appreciated only by
spending some serious quality time with them. Both Laysan and Black-footed albatross
are abundant on Eastern Island making for excellent opportunities to better acquaint
yourself with them. The black and gray Laysan Albatross is more numerous and
tends to occur more towards the center of the island while the dark-colored Black-footed
Albatross prefers areas near the shore. Dances of these species, while somewhat
similar to the uninitiated, include distinct and elaborate maneuvers and
gestures. Air snap, Rapid Bill Clapper, Head
Shake and Whine, and Scapular Action are just a few of the moves you may
see. Pick an area where both occur and take some time to revel in their
exuberance.
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| Left: Spinner dolphins are seen frequently in the lagoon. Right: Wildlife recolonized Midway after the closure of the Naval Air Station. |
( 7 ) 1P.M. Ø
REEF TIME
If the weather abides and
other factors align, a snorkeling trip to the outer reef should be included in
your itinerary. After a lunch at the Clipper House head down to the Finger Piers where you can get fitted
out with gear at the Snorkel Shack. Be
sure to inquire with locals as to the water temperature or check the NOAA Tide Station
to see if a wetsuit is recommended. Travelling across the azure waters of the lagoon
is nothing short of magical and you are often accompanied for part of the
journey by the local pod of Spinner
Dolphins whose name derives from their habit of leaping far out of the
water to execute incredible pirouettes. Just a few miles from the harbor is Reef Hotel which, despite the name, was
actually a surveillance post constructed by the Navy during the cold war. All
that remains now are some old rusty steel posts which, along abundant coral
provide a home for a dazzling number of sea creatures. Unicorn Fish, Convict Tang,
Moorish Idol, Giant Ulua, White-throated
Eel and Spotted Knifejaw are just
a few of the species you’ll see. Watch out also for Spiny Lobsters that take refuge in crevices in the coral and the
humongous Sea Cucumbers that laze
about on the ocean floor. Because it is a wildlife refuge no fishing or any
other type of collecting is permitted which allows the animals here grow to
remarkable size.
( 8 )
6
P.M. Ø A SUNSET TO DIE
FOR
After dinner, pack some
refreshments and ride out to West Beach to witness one of the best sunsets the
planet has to offer. A small bike parking area and some old fishing buoys mark
the start of a trail that leads through the local naupaka shrubs to the beach. Although the beach itself is actually closed
to the public, you can find a nice place to sit just before you reach the signs
marking the off-limits area that affords a great view of the western sky. Watch
for the green flash just after the
last drop of sun disappears below the horizon.
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| Sunset from Cargo Pier |
( 9 ) 8 P.M. Ø PARTY LIKE THERE’S NO YESTERDAY
Captain Brooks,
the one and only pub on the island, makes up for its small size with its large
reputation as a great place to cut loose and have a good time on a Saturday
night. Be sure to arrange for the pub to be opened in advance ($30 / hour
minimum purchase) and spread the word to ensure a good turnout. Only beer,
wine, and soft-drinks are served so if you are hankering for the hard stuff, be
sure to BYOB. Pizza, popcorn and other snacks are also available. In addition
to foosball, darts, and board games, the pub’s ring game often draws a small crowd (watch out, it’s addicting!).
Dancing is encouraged, just put in your musical request with the bartender and
he’ll likely be able to oblige you. Don’t
be surprised if you find yourself at the Aree House instead of at your hotel room
after last call as the heat generated at parties on the island takes a while to
dissipate!
Sunday
( 10 ) 10 A.M. Ø BEACH WALK AND BRUNCH
Sleep in, enjoying the
sounds of albatross courtship through the open window as you slowly awake to
your third and final day on the atoll. The Clipper House doesn’t open until 9
am on Sundays and stays open through the morning giving you the opportunity to
take a leisurely walk on North Beach before enjoying a leisurely brunch. From
the Clipper House walk west towards Rusty
Bucket watching for glass fishing floats among all the other flotsam washed
up on the beach. Or maybe you will find some other treasure among the
toothbrushes, lighters, fishing gear and other random trash? This might also be
a good time to evaluate the impact that you are having on the environment and
to think about how you might reduce the amount of trash you generate. As refuge
regulations don’t allow for the collection of anything living or dead, small plastic
figures or interesting bottles can make for pretty nice keepsakes of your visit
to the atoll. North Beach is also a favored hauling out spot for endangered
Hawaiian Monk Seals. Seals need their beauty sleep too so if you see one
remember keep your distance (at least 150 feet) so as not to disturb its
slumber!
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| The Old Generator Building is one of over a dozen notable historic sites at Midway Atoll. |
( 11 ) 1 P.M. Ø WWII REMEMBRANCES AND COLD WAR RELICS
Before Midway became
famous for its abundant wildlife, its renown stemmed primarily from its role in
defeating the Japanese Navy during World War II and paving the way for a US
victory. Official recognition came in
2000 when Midway Atoll was designated as the Battle of Midway
National Memorial. For history
enthusiasts, Midway offers not only a wealth of wartime artifacts but also important
relics from both before and after. Start your tour at the memorials across from
the Visitors Center. Each of the three stone slabs is inscribed with dedications
to the various fighting forces that shaped the war’s outcome. Next, head
towards the Ship’s Store veering right at the intersection to visit the Navy Memorial (also known as the Gooney Memorial for the large wooden
albatross statue that once stood there). The Navy Memorial is located adjacent
to the Midway Mall which was, during
the Cold War years, the hub of social activity for the thousands of folks (Navy
personnel, contractors, and families) once stationed at Midway. Although most
of the facilities have been closed for some time, some – bowling alley,
library, barber shop – are still in use. Check out the now defunct Midway
Theater where Bob Hope once entertained the troops. Continue towards the harbor
and check out the Seaplane Hangar. This giant building was actually once twice
its current size but had to be refashioned after Japanese fighter planes bombed
it during the war. Next stop is the Old
Generator Building where the valiant Marine Lieutenant George H. Cannon
sacrificed his life when he refused to give up his post despite severe injuries
incurred during the Japanese bombing of Midway on their way to Pearl Harbor in
1941. Now head back towards town and
check out the Midway House just across from the hotel. This elegant structure,
designed by famed Detroit architect Albert Kahn, was once the home of the Naval
Officer in Charge of the Naval Station. Heading back towards the Clipper House
check out the sole remaining Cable Company Building. Built in 1903 this, along with several other
structures of identical design housed the workforce of the Pacific Commercial
Cable Company which selected
Midway as a hub for the communications cable they stretched from San Francisco
to the Phillipines. Your historic tour would not be complete without taking a
moment to reflect on the effect the war had on the Japanese people. Just west
of the Clipper House you will find a small clearing with a black granite stone
resting on a tree stump dedicated in 1999. The inscription, written in Kanji can be roughly translated as
“Rest, the deep blue”, perhaps expressing hope that peace will reign over this
remote outpost into the future. The flight back to Honolulu is a long one so some
point it would be wise head back to the Clipper House for one final, hearty, and
no-doubt eclectic, meal.
Postscript: This post was inspired by the "36 Hours" feature of the New York Times, Sunday Travel Section.
