While the bulk of the work I and the local Fish and Wildlife
staff are involved with here at Midway Atoll pertains to restoring degraded
lands to better support wildlife, the place that these small islands hold
within the larger seascape is something that everyone here thinks about daily. In fact, Midway Atoll National Wildlife
refuge is just a small part of the vast Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument which encompasses 139,797 square miles. (If you want to know how the name “Papahānaumokuākea”, was chosen, what it
means, and how to pronounce it, click here.)
The problem with large numbers is that they can be hard to comprehend,
but 139,797 square miles is a really big area, so big you could fit all the US
national parks within it. Stretching from the island of Nihoa just west of Kaua’I
to Kure Atoll (a distance equal to that of New York City to Omaha), the
monument is mostly deep ocean but it encompasses 11 islands and atolls and
hundreds of miles of coral reef.
Sharks, Turtles, and Seals are constant reminders of the
fact that Midway Atoll is surrounded by a big, wild ocean and testimony to the
conservation importance of this place. Of these, I will admit to only seeing
the latter two so far, but since I like to swim and snorkel, sharks are on my
mind a lot and even though I will admit to having some fear about encountering
a shark, I also look forward to seeing some while I’m here. Like many top
predators, sharks are declining worldwide. Highly sought after as food, trophies,
and other uses, and also vulnerable to marine pollution and industrial fishing
practices, nearly half of shark species are at risk of extinction though recently sharks have
received more protection in both the United States and abroad. At Midway four shark species are seen
regularly: Galapagos Shark, Blacktip Reef Shark, Whitetip Reef Shark, and Tiger
Shark. Of these the Tiger Shark has the
worst reputation and I am told that if I see one while swimming, I should exit
the water quickly. Some sharks, including Whitetip Reef Sharks, distinguish themselves from other fishes by seemingly resting on the bottom of the ocean for long periods of time. Although I'm keen to see sharks here at Midway I'd be perfectly content if I got to see them while standing on the pier!
Sharks are frequent visitors to the deep water harbor on Sand Island. Swimming is not allowed there! |
Like the albatrosses, petrels, and terns, sea turtles and
seals lead a dual life, spending time both in the ocean and on land. Although six species of
sea turtle occur in the Pacific, only two regularly occur in the Northwestern
Hawaiian Islands: Green Turtles and Hawksbill Turtles. Hawaiian green sea
turtles, a genetically distinct race of the much more widespread Green Sea Turtle are a
common sight at Midway Atoll. For decades they have frequented a certain beach –
aptly called Turtle Beach – on Sand
Island which is just a five minute bike ride from my house. I don’t actually
ever go to turtle beach to check them out as they are sensitive to disturbance
and thus it’s not permitted. But because they spend a bit of time foraging on
algae at the nearby Cargo Pier where I go snorkeling, I see them pretty regularly. Green Sea Turtles throughout
the world have had a hard road for some time. Hunted for their meat, their eggs
taken from their nests to be consumed as delicacies, and entangled in both
fishing nets and marine debris populations are in pretty bad shape. Because of
this many green sea turtle populations, including those found throughout the
Hawaian Islands, are listed as Threatened
by the US Endangered Species Act. The
protection seems to be working as populations haveincreased by about 50% in the past 25 years. Hawaiian green turtles are large (up to 400
lbs), very long lived (at least 60-70 years), and nest exclusively at a place
called French Frigate Shoals, more than 500 miles from Midway! Watching turtles swim is something I really
appreciate about living here at Midway. They show an amazing combination of grace,
power, and determination in their movements.
The HawaiianMonk Seal is one of just three monk seal species worldwide, all of which
occur in tropical climates. All monk seal species have been exploited
extensively by human hunters and are either endangered (Hawaiian and
Mediterranean monk seals) or extinct (Caribbean Monk Seal). Hawaiian monk seals live only in the Hawaiian
Islands and despite the protection afforded them by the Endangered Species Act
and the Marine Mammal Protection act, still number only around 1000 individuals
today of which the vast majority live in the Papahānaumokuākea Marine Monument.
These seals face myriad threats which range from entanglement in marine debris
to harassment by people (seals have even been found dead with gunshot wounds on
the Main Islands!). The latter isn’t a
big deal here in the Northwestern Islands because there are only 50 or so
people and they areas frequented by seals are strictly off limits. Out here
though, competitionfor food with fish and predation by sharks are major factors limiting thepopulations.
Living with seals is a real privilege though we must always be
careful as to not to accidentally disturb them. Earlier this week while walking
on the beach, my friend Ann Humphrey and I accidentally came upon a mother with
a young pup hauled out on the sand and had to quickly turnaround and take a
very long and inconvenient route behind the dunes to avoid them. Seals are a
top priority here on Midway and, in fact, two entire sides of the island (including
the former “Officer’s Beach”) are off limits because of their popularity with
the Hawaiian Monk Seal!
Learning about the lives of far ranging, ocean inhabitants like sharks, turtles, and seals makes me wonder about all the amazing places within across the vast area that makes up the Papahānaumokuākea Marine Monument. If, like me, you are interested in seeing these places you can take a "virtual visit" at NOAA's website.
You can follow activities across Papahanaumokuakea and the Hawaiian monk seal research program on facebook. https://www.facebook.com/Papahanaumokuakea/ and https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=hawaiian%20monk%20seal%20research%20program , respectively.
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